Introduction

Darts are triangular folds sewn into fabric to shape a flat piece of cloth to fit body curves. In blouse making, proper dart placement is crucial for achieving that custom-fitted look. This guide covers everything you need to know about dart positioning.

What Are Darts?

A dart is a tapered, stitched fold that removes excess fabric and creates shape. The dart point should end near the fullest part of the curve it shapes, but never directly on it.

Key Components:

Dart legs: The two stitching lines
Dart point: Where the legs meet (the apex)
Dart intake: The amount of fabric taken in

Types of Darts in Blouses

Bust Darts

Side Bust Dart (Horizontal)

Most common in saree blouses
Starts from side seam, points toward bust apex
Creates fitted waist while accommodating bust

French Dart (Angled)

Starts from lower side seam
Runs diagonally toward bust
Elegant, slimming effect

Shoulder Dart (Vertical)

Runs from shoulder down toward bust
Good for smaller bust sizes
Creates clean front appearance

Waist Darts

Back Waist Darts

Create fitted back
Usually positioned at quarter and three-quarter points
Essential for hourglass silhouette

Front Waist Darts

Shape the front below bust
Work with bust darts for complete shaping
May be eliminated in princess seam designs

The Apex Point

The bust apex is the fullest point of the bust. All bust-shaping darts should point toward but stop before this point.

Finding the Apex:

Measure from shoulder to bust point
Measure from center front to bust point
These measurements give you apex coordinates

Important Rule:

Dart should end 1 to 1.5 inches before apex
Ending at apex creates a pointed, unflattering look
Ending too far from apex leaves fabric loose

Dart Placement by Body Type

Small Bust (A-B Cup)

Smaller dart intake (0.5 to 1 inch)
Single dart often sufficient
Shoulder dart works well
Dart ends 1 inch from apex

Medium Bust (C Cup)

Moderate dart intake (1 to 1.5 inches)
Side bust dart is ideal
Dart ends 1.25 inches from apex
May need slight waist shaping

Full Bust (D+ Cup)

Larger dart intake (1.5 to 2.5 inches)
Consider two darts or princess seams
French dart distributes shaping well
Dart ends 1.5 inches from apex

High Bust

Position dart higher on side seam
Apex measurement from shoulder is shorter
Dart angle may be more horizontal

Low Bust

Position dart lower on side seam
Apex measurement from shoulder is longer
Dart angle may be more diagonal

Common Dart Placement Mistakes

Mistake 1: Dart Pointing Too High

Problem:

Solution:

Mistake 2: Dart Pointing Too Low

Problem:

Solution:

Mistake 3: Dart Too Long

Problem:

Solution:

Mistake 4: Dart Too Short

Problem:

Solution:

Mistake 5: Wrong Dart Intake

Problem:

Solution:

Transferring Darts

Sometimes you need to move dart position for design purposes. The dart can be rotated to different locations while maintaining the same shaping effect.

Possible Dart Positions:

Shoulder
Neckline
Center front
Side seam (most common)
Armhole
Waist

Transfer Method:

Draw line from new position to apex
Close original dart
New dart opens at new position
Same amount of fabric is taken in

Princess Seams as Dart Alternative

For larger busts or design preference, princess seams replace darts entirely.

Benefits:

Smoother shaping over curves
No dart points visible
More design possibilities
Better for full bust

When to Use:

Bust dart would be very large
Customer prefers seamless look
Design calls for panels

Pressing Darts

Proper pressing is essential for professional results.

Bust Darts:

Press toward waist (downward)
Use tailor's ham for shaping
Do not press fold beyond dart point

Waist Darts:

Press toward center (front or back)
Keep dart flat and smooth

Conclusion

Dart placement is both science and art. Understanding body geometry helps you position darts correctly, while experience teaches you to adjust for individual variations. Master this skill, and your blouses will consistently achieve that coveted custom-fit look.

CuttingMaster automatically calculates optimal dart positions based on customer measurements. Our patterns take the guesswork out of dart placement while allowing you to make adjustments as needed.